UDP Install, HELP!

[Mighty Horse]

I just installed a powerbond UDP. Finally got the thing to 230 ft/lbs but the bolt head is not tight against the washer. I can spin the washer with my fingers. Got everything put back together and have a loud tapping sound that seems to be coming from the valve cover area. Sounds like valve train noise to me. I tried taking the bolt back out to see if the pulley is flush with the end of the crank but i can not get the damn thing back out. It's tighter that f*@#! When the engine is running the pulley and the bolt are wobbling. What should I do?

[GRRRR8]

How did you press the pulley on?

[Mighty Horse]

I used the ARP bolt without the washer to get it started then put the washer on the tightened it all the way down.

[GRRRR8]

So the washer isn't touching(loose) but the bolt is tight as hell correct.

I sure don't want to tell you this, but I had to fix one for the same reason. When the customer installed the pulley(just like you did), the threads in the crank were weak and starting galling causing the the threads to seize the bolt.

Ever since I saw this happen I heat all LS balancers and slide them on all the way and then tighten the bolt or use the correct installation tool.

[Mighty Horse]

So the washer isn't touching(loose) but the bolt is tight as hell correct.

That is correct.

So how do you fix this? After I got the pulley started I backed the bolt out, slid the washer on then started the bolt back by hand. It didn't feel cross threaded and it started very easy. Am I f#*@ed? Is it ok to drive? I'm freakin out right about now!

[Devilish34]

So the washer isn't touching(loose) but the bolt is tight as hell correct.

I sure don't want to tell you this, but I had to fix one for the same reason. When the customer installed the pulley(just like you did), the threads in the crank were weak and starting galling causing the the threads to seize the bolt.

Ever since I saw this happen I heat all LS balancers and slide them on all the way and then tighten the bolt or use the correct installation tool.

Bake the pulley .......Can he pull it and clean the threads with a tap??

[Mighty Horse]

That little voice in my head was telling me to throw the UDP in the oven while I was taking the old one off. Should have listened!

[GRRRR8]

That is correct.

So how do you fix this? After I got the pulley started I backed the bolt out, slid the washer on then started the bolt back by hand. It didn't feel cross threaded and it started very easy. Am I f#*@ed? Is it ok to drive? I'm freakin out right about now!

If its not on all the way you can damage the crank or throw the belt.

The bolt has to come out. It will not be easy. Then the pulley needs to come back off. You will need a thread tap for that size bolt to clean the threads. The outer threads will be ruined, but once the balancer is on all the way, there will be good threads for the bolt to tighten into. Do not press the balancer on with the bolt once the threads are clean/clear. Heat the balancer with a heat gun or small torch(off the car) on the inside where it slides on the crank. It will slide all the way by hand when its heated enough. Then spray it with cool water to cool it down and install bolt with blue Loc-Tite. Make sure you blow all the metal shavings out of the crank once the threads are repaired.

[Mighty Horse]

Ok, thanks for the help Charlie. Looks like this is gonna be a LONG night.

[wnt2gofst]

So the washer isn't touching(loose) but the bolt is tight as hell correct.

I sure don't want to tell you this, but I had to fix one for the same reason. When the customer installed the pulley(just like you did), the threads in the crank were weak and starting galling causing the the threads to seize the bolt.

Ever since I saw this happen I heat all LS balancers and slide them on all the way and then tighten the bolt or use the correct installation tool.

This happen to my cobra! luckly had tools to fix it myself. we retapped the crank. man it made for a long day.